Saturday, May 24, 2008

Sneak Peek

It's the end of the day Saturday and here is what I have done so far.

video

The scoot must be completely put back together in two days. Monday evening it will be loaded onto the truck to go to the painter.

After I move back West I will have just a couple minor things to do, such as put the pilot bulb in the headset and replace the speedo bulb and such.

I aim to work tomorrow from 10 AM to 5 PM and try to finish up the bike as mush as possible. On Monday, I'd like to test ride it before loading it on the truck.

I feel very bonded to the scoot now!

Starting on Tuesday I aim to begin to add posts documenting the last steps of reassembly.

Friday, May 23, 2008

Junction Box

Wiring the junction box is a breeze if you do it like this...

Go to Radio Shack or what have you and buy (1) shrink tubing and (2) the smallest as possible connectors -- pictured below:

Note the larger ones.  They had tubing on them and I tried to install with those the first time and I had to cut the tubing off and crimp them vertically to get them to fit.  It was SLOPPY.  It is important that they are as small as possible in order for the junction box to close properly.  Plus it looks a lot nicer and who says that no one will ever see them -- you just did.


Cut a proper length of shrink tubing off and slide it onto your wire then crimp the connector on it.  Afterwards heat the shrink tubing so it constricts and protects the wires from coming into contact with anything other than the terminal you screw it into.

I could not find the original junction box screw since I purchased my bike disassembled, so I replaced it, but Home Depot does not sell metric galvanized hardware which I wish it did, because the stainless doesn't look good here.  Of course, that is an easy fix in the future.


Thursday, May 22, 2008

Final stretch to completion

Here's a sneak peak of where I was two days ago . . .
The race is on to finish assembling the bike by Monday, May 26th.  On the 27th the bike is due to the paint shop for touch paint before I move back West on June 10th.  The bike is coming along quickly and smoothly.  I am working on it for about 3-4 hours per day.  I will continue to work on it on Friday, Saturday, Sunday, and Monday.  I believe I will be able to complete the bike.  

Pictured above is the floor rail kit installed.  Note that the kick stand bolts will need the stamps on the heads ground off.  

Many posts to follow from Tuesday on.



Wednesday, May 21, 2008

Hand Peen Rivet

video
Sadly, this is a poor quality video taken from a digital still shot camera.  I don't own a high quality video camera that talks with my Mac -- so this video will have to suffice.

My goal is to introduce newbies to the art of hand peening rivets for the floor rail of your scooter.

The process goes like this:

Preparation: file the holes in the frame out with a circular hand file and coat the bare steel with a thin coat of paint so it does not rust in the future.

1) Drill a hole in a refridgator magnet to protect the paint around the rivet (thanx Tom G.)

2) Stick the rivet through and measure some where between a 1/8 to 1/4 inch (depending on the size of the hole the rivet goes through -- ie did you drill it out?) of visible the rivet and cut off the rest.  

3) Put pressure on the rivet head (anchor it) with a cone shape to preserve the "button" on the rivet head.  

4) Tap straight down on the rivet until it gets a little lip on it.

5) Now tap at a downward angle.  Walk around it 360 degrees.  It will mushroom.

6) Flatten it out again.  Steer the rivet if you need to move it in one direction or another.

7) Angle it again and "walk around the rivet".

-- Repeat, repeat, repeat! --

Once the rivet is compressed/expanded go ahead and leave a small mushroom.  Now take your waffle punch and give it one or two good wacks with the flat side of your ball peen hammer (do not use a larger/heavier hammer or you will dimple your frame).

Viola!

Sunday, May 18, 2008

Cowl Installation

The cowl trim rubber was easy to install. You need to cut a "V" in the rubber around the peg at the front of the cowl to get the rubber to fit properly.
Once the cowls were on I was shocked to see how wide the scoot's butt was in comparison to some other scooters.  Note that the seat is NOT correct.  The flip is missing and I will have it added at a later date.  In the archive I did a big write-up about the seat and how upset I am over it.  That's an easy fix though.  The seat frame is original.  The seat is not installed.  I just put it on so my wife could see pictures of her bike.
Make sure you remove all rubber grommets before it gets painted. I found that the white grommets for the cowl pegs were still in my bike and I carefully drilled them out using a stepping system with the drill bits. When the grommet was thin enough I very carefully used the needle nose pliers to pull it all the way out before installing the new ones.  Beneath the engine cowl is a properly wired junction box.  A blog entry to follow on that.
I used Ariete rubber. I am not as happy with the trim pieces I bought long ago for the cowls and the front fender. I am not sure of the quality yet.  They are too shiny to look stock in my humble opinion.
It sure looks nice to see the scoot with cowls on, as-if progress is being made.