Rebuilt rear shock

The guts of the rear shock are not much different than the front shock.

The rear shock housing was powder coated to look stock.


I ordered a new stock shock spring made by MeCur and had it powder coated black to look stock.

We replaced the oil with the same motorcycle suspension oil we used when we rebuilt the front shock.

Once oil was added it was sealed back up and looks really nice and matches the front shock we rebuilt. It also saved me some money to do this way -- not much -- but I like consistency in the looks of the bike.

Modified fuel tap

The question has come up . . . since I don't have a sediment bowl for my fuel tap, shall I add a fast flow filter on and take advantage of the new technology? The SS180 is not a museum relic and is already mildly custom, so what's the big deal, right?

The answer is long winded . . .
If my gas tank is clean or sealed (with a chemical treatment) I might be able to get away with a fast flow filter, but my gas tank was treated in a hot bath at my local radiator shop. It was rusted inside. It came out clean, but a little pitted. I follow the ol'school and did not opt to use a chemical seal (as they have failed scooterists in the past, but I hear their reputation and quality has improved a lot in recent years) -- I chose to coat the tank with 2stroke oil to prevent rust.

If I use a fast flow, I might be wise to use a in-line fuel filter ($4.00) to catch any pits that come from my gas tank. That is an option.

After a lot of research and chatting with mentors, I have decided to stick stock (and as I write this post, I believe I may have located a sediment bowl I can buy). Tom G. summed it up nicely by saying:

"Part of my philosophy is this. These bikes were designed to, and did, run fine for thousands of miles with the stock equipment of the day. In this case, that means plain old fuel filter, with sediment bowl(and internal tank filter). That set up passed plenty of fuel for the stock engine setup, and was pretty foolproof. So maybe you clean out your sediment bowl every winter when you lay the bike up for the season. \

Every change you make from stock introduces at least one variable that could affect reliability. Who needs that? And in this particular case, I know that I HAVE installed inline fuel filters in vespa fuel lines -- and they have caused fuel starvation issues. So I don't use them no more. ;o)

Certainly, kitted motors might guzzle fuel more quickly than a stock fuel tap can supply. This is why fast flow fuel taps are a good idea on 200cc Lambrettas, and an absolute necessity on kitted racers. But then, the lammy fast flow tap is identical to the normal tap, except for a larger aperture. Normal lammy taps do not have a sed. bowl, and neither do the fast flow taps."

Tractor Tail Light

It is my understanding that the later USA model SS180s had round headlights, due to water seals I've heard, and I do not know why they began using the "tractor tail lights." Below is a photo of a NOS tractor tail light for a SS180:
My lens is CEV and is cracked. I don't have the side reflectors either. Other than that the tail light is in good shape and is painted to match the bike.

I know other models use this tractor tail light as well.

Parts Purchase

Using Ted W.'s 20% discount, on Saturday he picked up the following items from B & B Yamaha:

1) Light bulbs for front & rear tail lights

2) 2 Qrts of Yamalube 2cycle oil

3) A variety of nuts and bolts (metric). The smaller n/b will be purchased at the local hardware store.

4) Spark plug NGK B6ES (2 more are on order)

5) Gas line tubing

TOTAL (about): $25

That's it for now. I am still working on finding non-Indian grommets. I have two leads.

When buying ASK?!

I have contacted a few shops I work with to find out if I buy their grommets/rubber individually if I can avoid buying poor quality Indian-Rubber and the general response is "No! Everyone sells the same stuff for the most part. You will really need to hunt." Then I find one shop that sells non-Indian and they state their pieces will cost more.

Bottom line people -- don't cut corners. Ask before you purchase. You will find them.

So far the only shop that responded to my question that does not sell Indian-Rubber is MotorSport in San Diego, Calif.

Fender Hardware Sizes

I have received a few emails requesting the size of the hardware for the front fender to steering column.

Thanx to Eric W., who provided me with this:

"I just put the fender on the fork friday. The top of the fender is 3
slotted m3 bolts. They are 3/4 inch in length. The two on the side of
the fender are slotted m5 bolts. They are 1/2 inch in length." -- Eric

Correction:

"Yeah, the top bolts are not 3mm. They are 5mm x .80 x 18mm hex head bolts, no markings on the head. Good place for stainless since you can polish off the bolt head markings, and it's a non high stress location." -- Paul

Readers' Help Requested -- Parts Needed

Readers,

I need the following items and wondered if you know of anyone with a spare set:

Left handlebars Cover Part #71002
Right handlebars Cover Part #71003
Cover sec. screw Part S. 14564

I also need a sediment bowl -- stock glass would be preferred.

I thought I had these and I do not. I have the round Rally 180 style headset.

Crap, I am going to have to get these things painted by my shop to match the bike.

Email me offline if you got the hook-up.