Saturday, October 3, 2009

Clutch Issue Continues

Updates below as of 10/7/2009

Here's the work that has been done on the scooter thus far as posted on Paul's Blog. Click me!

After the clutch was put back together and rear wheel put on Paul tested the scoot and the clutch issue is NOT resolved. I need help and that is what I am asking for . . .

Email sent to my SS180 mentors & Super-Sports Yahoo Group:

"Tom, Christopher, & Hiro -

I have a problem with the clutch on the Vespa SS180. The clutch was
just examined by an experienced mechanic friend and the cork plates,
basket, etc. all look good. From what I understand there were a few
ways it could be assembled in the basket and lock into place. Two
ways had a lot of free movement and one way was sorta snug, but not
locked perfect. The snug way is not enough top get the clutch to
operate correctly.

Here's the issue:

In 1st gear at a stop the clutch grabs and pops a wheelie and makes a
terrible sound. You can see it here in the video and hear the sound

It seems to shift through the other gears okay, but I would not
describe it as "butter."

Help trouble shooting?"

**** RESPONSES ****

""Hi Jeremy,
I would recommend to test with another clutch unit/assembly which works good. Do
you have a friend who ride an SS there?

I would suspect the worn springs inside the Christmas tree gears if it works.
Good luck,
-Palmog" (posted on Super Sports Yahoo Group)

"Hi again, Jeremy,

I've just found this mail now. In addition to what I've posted on the Vespa Sports group, you would want to check the needle roller bearing inside the helical gear of the clutch unit. It is very easy to check only turn the reverse threaded brass washer off.

I happen to have my SS motor completely been disassembled in my room now. I can take photos of any of parts as a reference if you need. Just let me know what you need.

Good luck,

Other possibilities my research turned up:

(1) The plain clutch plates are dished slightly (0.012 in) and bear a scribed
line on the concave surface. These marks must be facing outwards and assembled
above each other towards the retaining circlip.

(2) Check that the gear ring is firmly riveted to the back plate of the clutch.

(3) Check the sides of the slots in the clutch basket. In order to properly disengage, the tabs of the plates have to slide freely in the basket slots.

(4) Make sure the spring washer that goes on the crank before the clutch is properly installed. The small end of the cone goes towards the crank.

Any of my readers have suggestions? Please comment.

Wednesday, September 30, 2009

Resolving the rear hub grinding

I was missing one critical part -- the internal cone for rear hub. See the internal and external cones pictured below. These parts are NOS and the shops that I work with in California all had them in stock. These parts sell for between $6.50 and $12.50 each depending on where you buy them. Also pictured is the replacement headlight bulb socket I needed.

Paul S. posted a blog entry on the work he did on the rear hub. You can read about that here, but you will find more information is this post.

Tuesday, September 29, 2009

SS180 nears completion

Email in from Paul S.:

"I forgot to email you about it, but I got some time to work on your scooter last weekend. The clutch is back in, and the rear hub is on. Success! No rubbing on the rear hub, so I think the cone fixed it. I didn't have more time to run the scooter to check on the brakes and clutch action. Hopefully I can get to it this week.

I have started to post some blog entries on the work I did on your scooter. The first one is up today. I'll probably post one a day for the next week about the SS."

Thx Paul S.