Installing the rear brake switch and pedal are pretty straight forward as you can see in the slide show.
Note: If you are replacing your rear brake switch there are two things to keep in mind: (1) I was told that the after-market switches that cost $15 are crap and the color is off and the quality is shottie -- so buy $25 Piaggio brand and (2) there are two types of switches -- one is always connected at the terminals and the other is not. Notice that I ordered one that is always connected and my stock one is not. I need to exchange that part for the correct one.
Regarding the switch . . . here is the switch that I need to get now . . .
"I spoke to the guys out at Scooterwest/Motorsports and came to the conclusion that the appropriate switch was the one that is often listed for large-frame, DC bikes. It makes sense, since that is the switch that is used for a VBB, and the VBB wiring harness is the closest to an original GS/SS wiring harness. I won't be able to tell you for another week how well it works out. Ah...here we go: brake switch via Motorsport Scooters is referred to as a 'Rear stop switch 125/150 Onwards GRAY', #181637, $14.00 - - Jen H."
Here's what I did:
1) I added the terminals to my new brake switch. The direction the wires enter on the new switch are different than how the entered on the old switch; therefore I had to guess on which wire goes where, but this is an easy fix for later. Make sure you run the wires through the seal first. Note that my new seal is black, not gray like the stock one.
2) Screw on the switch, but leave some play as you will need to adjust the switch once the pedal is on.
3) File down excess paint from the pedal stud and inside the locking pin canal until everything fits and moves freely.
4) Hand polish your brake pedal with a mild abrasive sponge. The white metal does not like Mother's Chrome Polish.
5) Connect your brake cable.
6) Put you pedal on the stud and push it all the way down. Now install your brake pedal lock pin from the top down. You will need a punch to gently tap it all the way down.
7) Line up your brake pedal with your switch.
8) Connect your brake cable at the rear hub and the tension will cause you pedal to stand upright.
5 comments:
Help!
I'm restoring a '69 VLB (Sprint Veloce) and have a new BLS. For the life of me I can't figure out how to get the little metal bits into the switch properly. Mine is like your grey one, I believe always ON. Every direction I put it in is wrong. My multimeter shows it's always on, even when the switch is pressed.
Can you do a closeup of the metal tabs installed in the brake light switch?
thanks!!!
Gary,
I'm sorry, but my box of old parts (the original -- though I do not know how it was originally wired because I bought the bike in pieces and the switch was disassembled) brake switch is packed so far back in a 25x10 storage unit that I won't be able to take a picture of it for quite some time.
On the flip side, I do have access to the new brake switch and will be removing that one within the next couple weeks. The Vespa is also in storage.
In the meantime, if you click on the photo of the two switches in this post the picture will ENLARGE significantly (as do all the photos on this blog) and you will be able to see them in much more detail.
I believe you will actually be able to see how I installed the "L" shaped tab on the left side of the switch and the "I" shaped short tab on the bottom right corner.
Does this help?
Jeremy
I was able to get it. Turns out my new wiring harness had connectors where it should have been bare wire to solder to the little metal tabs.
That's quite a nice clean scoot you've got there!
Thanks for the response!
Not a problem Gary.
You don't actually need to solder . . . you can easily crimp the new wire harness ends in the metal connectors.
Jeremy
have a 65 VBN, how do you take the brake pedal off?
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