The fork/steering column is fully assembled. Though my front hub pivot was in okay shape with not too much wear, I opted to replace it. Ted removed the old one and installed the new one. Back in his shop days, he learned to use a thicker grease on roller bearings like these, because it acts as a "glue" and holds them in place when packing the bearings and makes your life a whole lot easier.
As you can see below, I reused all my hardware, only replacing the grease nipple, which is a moot point, because we installed sealed bearings in the front hub, but I want this mildly custom SS180 to look true to the period.
We replaced the brake pads and sealed everything back up. The paint job sure looks sharp and I am so happy we rebuilt the front shock and kept it stock.
The bottom race on the steering column was a little misshaped. Ted straightened it. These pieces are easy to replace if need be.
One thing I did not do is to use fiberglass tape around the bearing races and any other surfaces that should not be painted. Make sure that you take the time to research and think about all areas that should NOT have paint on them and then to cover them with fiberglass tape pre-medium blasting and painting (you can change the tape to a painter's tape after medium blasting). Then you will only need to clean the areas.
Ted used his wire wool and sand paper, and when appropriate his Dremel, to clear paint where there should not be paint, ie my bearing race.
You can see the bearing race is clean here.
Before reinstalling the front fender and steering column Ted greased and installed the bearings.
As you can see below, I reused all my hardware, only replacing the grease nipple, which is a moot point, because we installed sealed bearings in the front hub, but I want this mildly custom SS180 to look true to the period.
We replaced the brake pads and sealed everything back up. The paint job sure looks sharp and I am so happy we rebuilt the front shock and kept it stock.
The bottom race on the steering column was a little misshaped. Ted straightened it. These pieces are easy to replace if need be.
One thing I did not do is to use fiberglass tape around the bearing races and any other surfaces that should not be painted. Make sure that you take the time to research and think about all areas that should NOT have paint on them and then to cover them with fiberglass tape pre-medium blasting and painting (you can change the tape to a painter's tape after medium blasting). Then you will only need to clean the areas.
Ted used his wire wool and sand paper, and when appropriate his Dremel, to clear paint where there should not be paint, ie my bearing race.
You can see the bearing race is clean here.
Before reinstalling the front fender and steering column Ted greased and installed the bearings.
3 comments:
Sealed bearings in the hub? Why?
The "open" bearings work great, (as you saw in your own disassembly) and are serviceable, which make them last forever. You have removed the ability to service your bearing. The sealed bearings will NEVER last so long. Grease degrades with time, usage, and heat. How will you renew the grease in your sealed bearings? Why change from a system that works great to a system that limits your options?
- Paul B.
Paul B.
Please see response as a blog post, titled "Use sealed bearings or not?" on March 4, 2008.
Thank you Paul. You have added good information and questions to this blog.
Jeremy
Hi
I would like to find front fork assembled for ss180
Have you got 1 for sale??
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