How to polish chrome pieces

In speaking with mentors Christopher Markley and Tom G . . . I have learned how to preserve the beauty of my dinged-up kick start lever and more.

Tom G. says:

Try autosol for chrome.

For Aluminum, I do the sanding approach, using wet/dry
sandpaper (sometimes I use it wet, sometimes I use it
dry).  220 is a good starting point, but some bad
scratches require coarser grades first.  then 320,
then 400, then 600, then 1000, then 1500, and THEN I
rub out with mothers aluminum polish (although I think
autosol is ok too).

Does your scooter drift around corners?

So I have been "stuck" on buying a Taffspeed P-Series rear spring to use with my original VSC rebuilt rear shock, because I want the scoot to ride stiffer and not drift around corners.

My daily rider is a Baja Chetak and I have the shock setting to this stiffest on my scoot, whereas my wife has her's set at less than the half point and I dislike riding her bike because it feels like you're riding on a cloud. It's too soft. I figured that because I tightened my suspension settings that it put more pressure on the spring therefore making the ride more responsive.

In speaking with Palmog, Tom G., and Christopher Markley I've learned that I was wrong -- it's not the spring that prevents the "drifting". All three of them told me to replace the spring with a stock spring.

Here's what Palmog said:

"As for the spring, Vespas are designed to carry two passenger and the spring rate is not so important as for the rear shock, IMHO, a standard/stock shock should work fine. Test it first and buy reinforced one if you really want it.

The drift of the rear tire would be improved by the absorber and the mounts. Is this what you want to improve, isn't it?"

In a follow-up email I told him that I replaced the engine mounts with Clauss Studio mounts and asked what he recommended for addressing the absorber issue. He responded . . .

"The dumping power of the absorber can be controlled by the oil rate/grade. The rear shock for Vespas are quite easy to take apart and the replacement of the grade of oils (you can use some fork oils) is relatively easy. The practice would be endless so I would like to suggest you don't be serious about that tuning. The feeling would be changed day by day. As for the stiffness of the rear shock, it tends to result with being uncomfortable during long rides. That is completely different with the choice for the front shock, in my opinion. Ride it first as it then you'll have an idea."

**** **** **** ****

I will buy a stock shock spring and set it up to be manufacture spec. My wife does not care as much about riding a bike as a race-scoot.

If you wish to learn more I recommend reading up suspension from the techy guys on BBS.

Disassembling? Things to think about!

We did NOT buy SS180 in one piece -- rather it was disassembled, but complete, and in boxes. We know Svend, who paid $25 for the complete assembled scoot along with the title (yah that's a find!). We know Eric, who bought it from Svend, and disassembled it. Eric planned to replace much of it, I believe. I know he aimed to buy a new 180cc engine.

Eric is methodical and careful and I am sure he took his time taking the bike apart, but what I don't know is if -- seeing as he aimed to replace parts -- if he removed the parts of the bike with same care he would have if he was REUSING everything. If memory serves me correct the badge scripts and fender crest may not be in the best shape.

The disassembling process that I recommend you consider is:
1) Remove everything like you aim to reuse it (badges, trim, everything!)
2) Inventory it immediately with official part #s and list the condition of each part on a "Keep, Replace, Maybe Salvage" scale. Use MS Excel as you can search parts easier that way.
3) Zip tie the part # on each part.
4) Have 3 rubbermaid containers: (a) polish me box, (b) parts cleaner box, (c) not to be reused parts -- save this box to compare your replacement parts to the original, for example if you order a new fender crest for the SS the size will be different than what is available. It is no longer made to spec. You wouldn't know that without the original! These details are important.

This work upfront will save you many hours later on, if you are a newbie restorer like me. Being methodical is the key. The inventory process is key!! Feel feel to request my final parts order XLS file and you can start from there and NOT recreate the wheel.

When rebuilding/restoring your rare bike, your goal should be (IN THIS ORDER):
1) Reuse everything I can (remember the reproductions of badges, trim, etc. are crap compared to the originals!). You can clean stuff up better than you expect.
2) If you can't reuse a part, be patient and hunt down NOS (new old stock) for the parts you need. This will aid with the value of your bike. Tom G. really urged me to use NOS every chance I get, even if I need to pay a little bit more.
3) Worst case scenario buy repro (reproduction).

If you are just building a common daily rider scratch the above. Buy the cheaper repro.

Below is an email conversation I had with Chelsea (Scomo) about new parts and her recommendations to reuse all I can in this restoration. Chelsea has some good suggestions that may benefit you.

Chelsea:

1. Will try to reuse script badges. I bought the bike in pieces and am not sure how carefully that stuff was removed. Need to revisit it.
2. Legshield trim is in iffy condition. May have to replace sadly.
3. Only real mod to the bike is it is British Racing Green and we're good with what ever stock color rubber is, ie floor rail kit.
4. I need new grips . . . so the repros will have to do.
5. My gas tank is clean and is fully usable. I was thinking more of the fuel tap.
6. My fuel tap is good shape, I think, and just need to soak it in carb cleaner -- BUT what is the quality on your fuel tap.
7. 97493 is a gasket for the fuel tank -- I used the GS/SS parts catalog from scooterhelp.com:
http://www.scooterhelp.com/serial/VSB1T.parts.html
http://www.scooterhelp.com/serial/VSC1T.parts.book.html
9. Rider is 200 lbs and I want an upgraded spring preferably -- recommendations? I have rebuilt the rear shock, just need the spring.
10. I think I only need the pivot bolts.

Eye in headset is #26157

Thank you,

Jeremy

---------------------------------------------------------------

Chelsea @ Scoot Richmond wrote:

Jeremy,

Questions, issues, thoughts, etc.

1. The currently available reproduction script badges for your scoot (both front Vespa SS and rear Super Sport) are crap. I hate to be such the bearer of bad news, but not nearly as much as I hate selling crappy parts for loads of money. If your originals are even marginally savable, I recommend doing so. If not, I'll see if I have any good originals here.
2. Legshield trim. The currently available reproduction legshield trim is chrome, made by Cuppini, is a bit lacking in the quality department fitment and weather-proof wise, and a bit fatter profile wise than the original stuff. The original stuff, made by Ulma, thinner profile, stainless steel, and all around a much better piece. Of course, Ulma hasn't made the stuff for 30+ years, which makes the Cuppini stuff the only option. Do you want to get the Cuppini stuff or do you have an original set that you can save?
3. From the factory, some of your rubbers were grey, and some were black. Therefore, some of the stuff you have specified as wanting grey actually only comes in black. Included here: Rear brake pedal rubber, floor strip rubber. 4. The grips available for your scoot these days are not exactly like the original. They have the old style rectangular Piaggio badge instead of the hex piaggio badge that was originally stamped on the grips. I have looks absolutely everywhere to find some grips that are right, and they just don't exist. 5. Fuel tank assembly...that's not going to be an easy one. Is your original tank gone? Dirty? lost? nasty smelly? I don't have an original tank and it's NOT going to be easy to find one. 6. looks like you are going to attempt to rebuild your original fuel tap..? I don't recommend doing that. A new tap is $17.99, and it'll save you a lot of hassles. I've put one in your cart.
7. Air bellows jubilee clips are non-existent. Most folks sub in generic clips from autozone or the like.
8. Hmm...for some reason, I am not finding 97493 in my parts books. Can you describe it for me?
9. We do not carry the taffspeed rear spring, as I am in fact unsure that they are still making it. We have a stock spring, or you can get a upgraded entire rear shock assembly. thoughts?
10. Hardware for clutch and throttle in headset. Are you referring to the pivots that fit inside the throttle and shift tube that actually hold the barrels of the throttle and gear cables, or something else? Same with the 73556 and 73552...seems that my parts book is missing a page. harumph!

HELP ME READERS -- Steering Column Bearings

Howdy folks I need the numbers off of BOTH steering column bearings (they are the balls-in-ring types) that are labeled #34 and #35 on this page:

http://www.scooterhelp.com/manuals/VSB1T.VSC1T.parts.manual/150.jpg

The part numbers are:
77024 (top bearing cage)
77025 (bottom bearing cage)



One of my bearings is beat bad and the other is MIA (might have been left with the guy we bought the bike from -- which was in pieces and in boxes when we got it). The only number my shop guy could give me was from the busted up bearing was "13515" -- does that jive with what you guys have?

Would you please help me and post a comment (click the comment button) with the SKF bearing numbers, engraved on on each bearing? I need that number to go to my local SKF dealer and buy them ASAP.

Lesson Learned:
SKF does not make the bearings. They cost about $15 or less for the two bearings. Purchase from your local scoot shop. The bearings are universal and are not unique to the SS180. Cost under $9 for both including tax.

How to clean your fuel tap

Your fuel tap is a bare aluminum/pot metal.
Soaking in carb cleaner is ideal, because it leaves no
film.
Paint thinner is ok, though.
No need to coat in paint or rust protector it afterward.

The fuel sediment bowl is part of the fuel tap mechanism and I believe it can be handwashed.

You can buy a one gallon container of carb cleaner. It will last you for years!

**** Save the paint thinner for the super goopy stuff like outside of engine
cases. Carb cleaner, used just for carbs, stays relatively clean, and
doesn't re-deposit bad junk from prior cleanings. For your fuel tap and carb rebuilds this is your best solution. ****

FOLLOW-UP LESSON:
To replace the fuel tap is less than $20, but I asked Tom G. what would be best and his response is:

If your original tap can be cleaned and re-used (with
a new gasket if needed), go with it.  But make sure
the filters are not damaged, and both tubes are clear.

Don't run without a sediment bowl unless you have no
choice.

Tom