Wednesday, January 23, 2008
Birth of another scooter restore blog
Keep your eyes on Eric's VBB. He's moving forward. Watch his restoration progress! Cheer him on. Bloggers need compliments and support. It feels like working in a vacuum at times and appreciative readers go a long long way.
Reassembly Update #2
Front shock is installed on the fork. It's ready for the front fender. Need to find hardware (go through my boxes) and take it to a hardware store and replace it with stainless steel hardware and install the front fender. I also need to polish the exposed bearing race so it glitters in the sun once more.After that the steering column can be installed.
I did not tape up bearing races on the top of the steering column and the bottom of the steering column before paint and THEREFORE had to remove the paint. Make sure to tape that up before you paint. If not, use a razor blade to cut around the paint and then chip away or sand away to avoid chipping any paint that will be exposed. Don't ruin your new paint job!
Ted used his Dremel tool, on a low setting, with light emery paper and ground off the paint of the bearing race without damaging the race or the paint.
Rear shock is almost rebuilt and ready to attach to the rear hub.
Inner tubes are purchased and tires will be mounted on the rim and then on the hubs. It's time to get the bike down on its own two feet.
The lower bearing cover appears to have been damaged while being removed. It is soaking in solvent and if the bend is minor it will be straightened again -- if not it will be replaced.
I did not tape up bearing races on the top of the steering column and the bottom of the steering column before paint and THEREFORE had to remove the paint. Make sure to tape that up before you paint. If not, use a razor blade to cut around the paint and then chip away or sand away to avoid chipping any paint that will be exposed. Don't ruin your new paint job!
Ted used his Dremel tool, on a low setting, with light emery paper and ground off the paint of the bearing race without damaging the race or the paint.
Rear shock is almost rebuilt and ready to attach to the rear hub.
Inner tubes are purchased and tires will be mounted on the rim and then on the hubs. It's time to get the bike down on its own two feet.
The lower bearing cover appears to have been damaged while being removed. It is soaking in solvent and if the bend is minor it will be straightened again -- if not it will be replaced.
Monday, January 21, 2008
VBB Restoration Advice
I received an email asking for potential websites and resources for restoring a VBB -- Vespa Super. Below is the email transaction of what I recommend. Please note that I am far from an expert, but I am always happy to share anything and everything that I have learned in this process.
Eric,
Congrats. Note: Be very careful with all eBay purchases. 90% are crap! It sounds like you may have found yourself a 10%'r. First off, please read my post (I think there may be two) on Things to think about during "Disassembly." If you are new to this process as I am, you will want to get all of your ducks in a row before moving forward at all. Also, this may feel like a big pain in the butt, but consider reading my blog from day one to present, because I too had a SERIOUSLY seized piston and show what it took to get it free (more than PB Blaster) and I also had many other issues, which I am sure you will experience as most restorers do. I promise it's worth the read. Before I restore my 1963 TV175 I am going to reread my entire VSC blog.
Now to answer you questions:
Great overview of restoration -- http://vespavillage.com/
Restoration of a Vespa Super -- http://www.scooterhelp.com/restorations/vbb.html
Maintenance of VBB -- http://web.mit.edu/scz/www/scoot/vbb-repair.shtml
Use Scoothelp.com to download info on your model, specifically the "parts" and "maintenance" manuals. Study those like there will be no tomorrow!
Eric, if you can salvage the original paint by treating rust and bringing back a little of the original luster of paint I suspect that would be a smarter move than repainting. If it's an option. The blog recommends products for this. It will cost at least $1000 to have it professionally painted and the value of the bike will not increase that much, if it were a MKII, VSB or an SS90, it would be a wise investment.
If you plan to do any bodywork or paint yourself, jump onto the forum at www.autbodystore.com, and ask many questions. This will prove better advice than you get on BBS, etc. These guys are hardcore and really know there stuff more than most.
Search the web relentlessly and study every square inch of your bike -- how it the day it left the warehouse.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HFKiLgX5mFY&feature=related
http://uk.youtube.com/watch?v=l_Fjfs9LWRw
Email people that post videos and such on your specific bike and ask away as well.
Be relentless in your documentation of the entire restoration. Blogging forces me to record everything immediately and in great detail. It's a wonderful tool for me and the readers as well. I recommend starting a blog on the process. Walk your readers through your experience, writing it down forces you to process it.
Anything else you need at this time Eric?
Good luck and PLEASE keep me posted.
Jeremy
Eric W. wrote:
I got a 1963 VBB 150 off of eBay (no, not a vietnamese one, one that needs A LOT of work). Within an hour of owning it, I had completely taken it apart and moved all the pieces to the basement to prep it for paint. I have the Haynes manual, but it walks through disassembling the engine in the craziest, vaguest manner possible, at least to me. You seem to find some great material, would you happen to know where I could find a nice walk-through for this engine?
Also, I think that the only thing actually wrong with my engine is that the piston is seized, I'll definitely take up your recommendation with the PB Blaster and give that a shot to get that sucker loose. But I would still like to figure out how to get the engine completely apart because I'm sure it could use a good cleaning behind the ears.
Thank you much!
-Eric W.
Eric,
Congrats. Note: Be very careful with all eBay purchases. 90% are crap! It sounds like you may have found yourself a 10%'r. First off, please read my post (I think there may be two) on Things to think about during "Disassembly." If you are new to this process as I am, you will want to get all of your ducks in a row before moving forward at all. Also, this may feel like a big pain in the butt, but consider reading my blog from day one to present, because I too had a SERIOUSLY seized piston and show what it took to get it free (more than PB Blaster) and I also had many other issues, which I am sure you will experience as most restorers do. I promise it's worth the read. Before I restore my 1963 TV175 I am going to reread my entire VSC blog.
Now to answer you questions:
Great overview of restoration -- http://vespavillage.com/
Restoration of a Vespa Super -- http://www.scooterhelp.com/restorations/vbb.html
Maintenance of VBB -- http://web.mit.edu/scz/www/scoot/vbb-repair.shtml
Use Scoothelp.com to download info on your model, specifically the "parts" and "maintenance" manuals. Study those like there will be no tomorrow!
Eric, if you can salvage the original paint by treating rust and bringing back a little of the original luster of paint I suspect that would be a smarter move than repainting. If it's an option. The blog recommends products for this. It will cost at least $1000 to have it professionally painted and the value of the bike will not increase that much, if it were a MKII, VSB or an SS90, it would be a wise investment.
If you plan to do any bodywork or paint yourself, jump onto the forum at www.autbodystore.com, and ask many questions. This will prove better advice than you get on BBS, etc. These guys are hardcore and really know there stuff more than most.
Search the web relentlessly and study every square inch of your bike -- how it the day it left the warehouse.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HFKiLgX5mFY&feature=related
http://uk.youtube.com/watch?v=l_Fjfs9LWRw
Email people that post videos and such on your specific bike and ask away as well.
Be relentless in your documentation of the entire restoration. Blogging forces me to record everything immediately and in great detail. It's a wonderful tool for me and the readers as well. I recommend starting a blog on the process. Walk your readers through your experience, writing it down forces you to process it.
Anything else you need at this time Eric?
Good luck and PLEASE keep me posted.
Jeremy
Eric W. wrote:
I got a 1963 VBB 150 off of eBay (no, not a vietnamese one, one that needs A LOT of work). Within an hour of owning it, I had completely taken it apart and moved all the pieces to the basement to prep it for paint. I have the Haynes manual, but it walks through disassembling the engine in the craziest, vaguest manner possible, at least to me. You seem to find some great material, would you happen to know where I could find a nice walk-through for this engine?
Also, I think that the only thing actually wrong with my engine is that the piston is seized, I'll definitely take up your recommendation with the PB Blaster and give that a shot to get that sucker loose. But I would still like to figure out how to get the engine completely apart because I'm sure it could use a good cleaning behind the ears.
Thank you much!
-Eric W.
Saturday, January 19, 2008
Rust Removal
While doing my weekly research on LCUSA (Lambretta Club of America) I came across this product, Quick Glo, that some use to remove rust from spots on parts that can not be soaked in Evaporust; such as a rusty floor board. This product removes the rust and brings back some of the original shine of the original paint.This would be a great product for myvesparestoration.blogspot.com to use, because his paint job is in good shape and paint is not a necessary investment for that bike's restoration.
Reassembly Update #1
The front shock has been attached to the fork and the front hub has been out back together with a brand new pivot pin. For the roller bearings in the pivot pin use a thick "sticky" grease to hold them in place -- kind of a grease glue, for lack of better description.
The rear shock is being rebuilt and then the steering column will be mounted and the engine will follow.
I will post some pictures and more details as soon as I can. Feb. is going to be a tough month for me so not a lot of detail expected until later in Feb.
The rear shock is being rebuilt and then the steering column will be mounted and the engine will follow.
I will post some pictures and more details as soon as I can. Feb. is going to be a tough month for me so not a lot of detail expected until later in Feb.
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