Glove Box Door Seal Install

If I were to do this all over again I would:
1) Put the glove box door to the side.
2) Apply Super WeatherStrip to both the metal glove box door and the strip -- running my finger along it to make it smooth.
3) Let them both dry.
4) Cut several pieces of painters tape and put aside.
5) Apply a new coat of WeatherStrip to only the rubber gasket. Avoid using too much. This stuff goes a long long way.
6) Carefully and quickly put the gasket on the glove box frame.
7) Tape it down with fierce pressure.
8) Put the glove box door on.
9) Close and lock the door so as to ensure the gasket has pressure on it and that the gasket fits properly.
10) Peel the tape back and quickly wipe up any excess. This stuff will eat your paint. You need to clean it up immediately and while it is still wet and wipes up like rubber cement. If it even thinks about drying you are too late.

My advice is, prep and practice a dry run so you do not have any excess to wipe up and use a black Super Weathership to match the gasket. It's tricky business because if you skimp on the sealant it will not hold your gasket in place. But if you use too much you will make a terrible mess that can't be 100% cleaned up.
I am not happy with the outcome of mine. My error was in the lack of prep. It could have been a cleaner job. I had to go back a second time and reapply sealant to a couple spots.

I usually use 3m Super WeatherStrip and I have a bias for that brand.

Note: I suspect that the absolute best way to do this is to purchase Super Weatherstrip Tape (made by 3M). It's double stick tape. Tape it to the gasket and cut the excess off. It will provide a cleaner and more consistent seal. This tape cost a lot more than the actual glue I used, but my glue job is just okay. The tape job would be perfect! There is also a 3m spray mount style adhesive that may also work extremely well. My mentor, Tom G., uses contact cement.

Broken fuel rod lever

It is rare that the metal fuel rod levers spin or come off the fuel rod. It is much more likely to happen to a plastic one.

I was so surprised when my brand new fuel rod lever came off the rod when I turned it. I wrote my mentor Tom G. about how to handle it. I suggested JB Weld.

Tom said:

Hi Jeremy. I've seen that happen with the new plastic fuel rods, but not (until now) with the all metal ones). I don't think JB is going to do the trick for this -- but I guess it is worth a try. If you do, you might want to slight rough up both surfaces to be joined with a dremel, to promote adhesion.

Another method, and a surer one I think would be drilling straight through the handle and rod to the other side, then tapping the hole, and screwing a small diameter machine screw right through. You might use an aluminum machine screw, and then cut off and peen the ends, and polish. Will probably look good, but quite a bit of work to salvage a not too expensive part.

At this point, I believe a replacement part is what is called for. I emailed the dealer, Gene M. of Scooters O (he's a really good guy), and he asked me to try JB Weld first. If not, he'd exchange it. He is also looking at his batch of fuel rods to ensure the rest are okay.

Note: Just graze it if you use a Dremel as I did loose the tight tight fit it had.

Fuel rod install

Before I could install the new fuel rod I needed to pinch the connection tabs.

You can see the gap here.  There is plenty of metal, and Gene M of Scooters O believed it would be safe enough to bend the metal.
I put the pin in place and cushioned the metal tabs with an old sock.
And pinched away.  I was able to fairly easily and with good control.
Unfortunately, both tabs did not bend.  Only one did.  I decided not to fuss with it, because the gap is closed and now locked around the clip and it will function correctly.
Since the bike has been stored I had a bit of oil in there to protect the tank from rust.  I used a little gasoline and flushed it all out.  When I turned the fuel rod lever nothing happened.  I removed the switch on the fuel valve and all look good.  I put it back together and turned it with a screw driver an off an on the fuel work.  The problem was the lever on the fuel rod.  It is held on by tension and spins around the rod.  I will use blue Locktite or JB Weld or Epoxy to lock it in place.  I just need to determine what product is best.

Fill the tank up with a little gas and tighten/loosen the two small screws on the petcock until the on/off lever can turn easily and gas does not leak.  You will need to find this perfect balance before putting the gas tank back in your bike.
The hardware for the gas tank and seat were pretty rusty.  I could easily replace it, but I like the idea of a few hidden parts to show the past and soul of the bike.  So I used some WD-40 and a wire brush and cleaned up the threads.  I used gasoline on the tougher spots.

Note the black tape holding that screw in place.  The nut on the underside came loose.  It's hard to work in there.  I may Locktite the nut in place or replace it.
To guide the fuel rod I use a long strand of black tape since the lever was off.  Easy install.  I still need to glue the lever on to the rod in the OFF POSITION and I will be good.

Paul B. left a great note in the comment field.  It is a good idea to install the fuel rod to frame cover (grommet) before sealing up the gas tank area as having access to both inside and outside the frame makes the job much much easier.  I had to cut my circle back to get it to fit and at the last pinch to install the grommet cover it fell inside my frame.  Of course!  Murphy's Law.  So I had to remove the seat and the gas tank to access it.  Every time I move a painted item,  no matter how careful I am, I run a high chance of a chip or a scratch.  I believe that is also Murphy's Law.

Once I have the lever glued on I can fire her up.

Progress is being made.  

Glove Box Door Install

Note the correct rivets for the hinges for the glove box door. I spoke with Mic at Scooter Shop an he often makes rivet hinges out of nails. I have been told that the P200 also uses rivets and the ends were bent so they don't slide out. I do not know this for fact, but decided to bend my rivet ends as opposed to cutting and rounding off. After all, unless you stick your head inside the glove box you won't see it ever.
I used a thick headed chisel to bend the softer rivets, but please note that needle nose pliers would have been a smarter and safer option if you choose this method. The reason is the hinge frames that is welded to the glove box inner is a solid surface and when I hammered down on the tip of the rivet it caused HARD vibrations to travel through the hinge frames. The metal of the glove box is thin and it caused "star" cracks in the paint. Which pissed me off, because I know how delicate paint is and had just completed installing the gas tank and tightened everything by hand and finished off with a screwdriver with ratchet attachment to protect the paint and not over correct. In the end, I was very careful beneath the seat (gas tank) and not careful enough on the visible glove box.

Pictured above is the completed glove box with the rubber trim to silence the glove box door from vibrating. I still need to glue that trim in place with a 3M adhesive. The secret is to use a lot less than you think you need.

Thanx to Max at ScooterWest for the $.90 cent rivets, the correct rear brake switch, and the glove box door trim.

Correct brake switch

Finally figured out the brake switch fiasco. I needed a grey gasket and switch for a non-batt bike. Note the one on the far left is correct. Size and plumbing is different on each of these. Even the part numbers are the same on two.