Fuel rod install

Before I could install the new fuel rod I needed to pinch the connection tabs.

You can see the gap here.  There is plenty of metal, and Gene M of Scooters O believed it would be safe enough to bend the metal.
I put the pin in place and cushioned the metal tabs with an old sock.
And pinched away.  I was able to fairly easily and with good control.
Unfortunately, both tabs did not bend.  Only one did.  I decided not to fuss with it, because the gap is closed and now locked around the clip and it will function correctly.
Since the bike has been stored I had a bit of oil in there to protect the tank from rust.  I used a little gasoline and flushed it all out.  When I turned the fuel rod lever nothing happened.  I removed the switch on the fuel valve and all look good.  I put it back together and turned it with a screw driver an off an on the fuel work.  The problem was the lever on the fuel rod.  It is held on by tension and spins around the rod.  I will use blue Locktite or JB Weld or Epoxy to lock it in place.  I just need to determine what product is best.

Fill the tank up with a little gas and tighten/loosen the two small screws on the petcock until the on/off lever can turn easily and gas does not leak.  You will need to find this perfect balance before putting the gas tank back in your bike.
The hardware for the gas tank and seat were pretty rusty.  I could easily replace it, but I like the idea of a few hidden parts to show the past and soul of the bike.  So I used some WD-40 and a wire brush and cleaned up the threads.  I used gasoline on the tougher spots.

Note the black tape holding that screw in place.  The nut on the underside came loose.  It's hard to work in there.  I may Locktite the nut in place or replace it.
To guide the fuel rod I use a long strand of black tape since the lever was off.  Easy install.  I still need to glue the lever on to the rod in the OFF POSITION and I will be good.

Paul B. left a great note in the comment field.  It is a good idea to install the fuel rod to frame cover (grommet) before sealing up the gas tank area as having access to both inside and outside the frame makes the job much much easier.  I had to cut my circle back to get it to fit and at the last pinch to install the grommet cover it fell inside my frame.  Of course!  Murphy's Law.  So I had to remove the seat and the gas tank to access it.  Every time I move a painted item,  no matter how careful I am, I run a high chance of a chip or a scratch.  I believe that is also Murphy's Law.

Once I have the lever glued on I can fire her up.

Progress is being made.  

Fuel tap assembly

First off, let me stress a mistake I made . . . I failed to test my fuel tap assembly for gas flow prior to ordering new seals. That was a mistake. My tap was thoroughly cleaned and seals were added, but at best it just dripped as opposed to gushed like it should. Click on the photo above to enlarge it and you will see that my fuel tap is beat up on the gas intake straw. Pictured above from bottom to top are: (1) the new standard non-sediment bowl tap, (2) the Indian reproduction tap, and (3) my original one. Most people I spoke with ALL recommended the non-sediment bowl style, but Tom G. I trust Tom G. 100% and I opted to buy a replacement with a sediment bowl, but I used the stock glass sediment bowl because it fit and seems more authentic to me.

It is "absolutely" vital that before the scoot company mails your new fuel tap that you ask them to wiggle the straw(s) and if there is any movement to get a new one or you will need to solder it.  I have heard that fuel taps are hit or miss.  

This is how my set-up looked before installation, minus the plastic catch-all pan pictured below which sits in the frame beneath the gas tank to capture any drips. I had to scrub it first. Note in the picture above that fuel tap almost looks stocks.  Make sure to install your fuel tap and set the tank up in a box vertically for over night to ensure that you do NOT have any leaks.

Inside the gas tank before I put the catch-all pan and the gas tank.  Note, that due to the fact that the gas flow works on gravity, I shortened the fuel line so it traveled "down hill" as much as possible.

To install the gas tank, let the fuel "On/Off" lever dangle almost vertically down until you can "roll" it through the frame. I failed to do this and in doing so broke the end of the fuel lever. What a pitiful shame.

Parts Purchase

Using Ted W.'s 20% discount, on Saturday he picked up the following items from B & B Yamaha:

1) Light bulbs for front & rear tail lights

2) 2 Qrts of Yamalube 2cycle oil

3) A variety of nuts and bolts (metric). The smaller n/b will be purchased at the local hardware store.

4) Spark plug NGK B6ES (2 more are on order)

5) Gas line tubing

TOTAL (about): $25

That's it for now. I am still working on finding non-Indian grommets. I have two leads.

Gas tank restoration

My mentor, Christopher Markley, helped me address the issue of severe rust inside the original SS180 gas tank. The previous owner had his brother sand blast the exterior. Christopher told me the best way to restore my gas tank is to have a local radiator shop "hot tank" the gas tank. This is NOT an acid dip, but rather a much less abrasive chemical process. I called Smitty's Radiator shop in Harrisburg, PA and was quoted $40-$60 for the job.

First Christopher had me remove the fuel tap so it would not be destroyed in the "hot tank." Thanks to Roland Henry, one of the founder's of Three Mile Island Scooter Club, who loaned me his GS fuel tap wrench that fits the SS perfectly.

Christopher stressed to me the importance of coating the gas tank with 2-stroke oil immediately after the "hot tank" inside the tank and then to use PPG Metal Cleaner and Conditioner (see the paint stipping post). I went to Advance Auto and picked up some "2-stroke Pennzoil for air-cooled engines."

Ernie, at Smitty's Radiator, charged me $45 total for the "hot tank" and then he bead blasted the tank to clean out all rust debris and he dried it as he bead blasted. He quickly coated the inside with oil generously. The tank was slightly pitted, but the structural integrity of the tank was solid. I picked up the gas tank and then PPG prep'd it for the painter. It is highly recommended, by Tom Giordano (a highly respected restoration expert), that I do not coat the inside of the gas tank and I trust Tom. If the tank had "thin" spots I may have considered coating the inards of the tank, but as many restorers say all coats eventually fail and fall apart and then are a major pain in the butt to clean out.