Vespa Aviation History

Is it any wonder that Vespa came from aircraft . . .

Above, my son, Hudson Rogue poses in front of a Waterman's Aerobile airplane. For Father's Day we went to the Udvar-Hazy Center. Airplanes are another hobby of mine -- I build and fly RC. After the completion of the 1962 Lambretta TV175 S.3 (I would also like to find a nice S.1 or S.2 and restore it as well for my wife . . . and one for me too), I will build my own ultralight airplane and fly it.
Check out the front light and fender on this baby. Doesn't Vespa scream airplane design (we already know this from our Vespa history books).
Though after looking at this bird, I think I rather ride a Vespa than fly this guy.

Seat foam? Need your help guys!

I share everything I learn with you guys and always point out my mistakes in the hopes that your restorations go smooth and perfect.

My Blog will only be as good as the contributions. Your comments, guidance, recommendations, and personal anecdotes will make this Blog be what it should be.

I write you this evening requesting YOUR HELP.

I need a couple pictures of the FOAM for seat, specifically the flip part. Two years ago my HD crashed and I lost all of my pictures and I know I took those pix because my foam was in perfect shape for recovering.

Please email me photos to: jeremy@bassmonkey.com

Let's help our fellow SS folks out please.

Mark Lee wrote:
> Jeremy,
> I found your blog referring to your Vespa SS restoration and you've already helped me and that's before I even started work on my 1966 Vespa SS.
> I noted your error with the seat and that stopped me from handing my seat over to be recovered.
> My foam is missing at the back the way yours is. Did you find a replacement piece of foam, do you happen to have any pictures of what this piece of foam looks like?
> Appreciate any response you may have and thanks again for the reference web site.
> Mark
> (Atlanta GA)

Rust in that hard to reach place?

Damn it! Damn it! Damn it!

Note to all you newbies, we all (even myself) have the best intentions when we try to help you and give you advice. Hell, I have stripped threads in my clutch perch because of advice on removal I got on BBS. I now have a painted body with minor to moderate rust in the hidden area in the center frame tube.

I knew about this after I got the bike back from the medium blaster, who could not reach it. At the time, Christopher Markley turned me on to "Zero Rust," which converts the rust + seals it. I used a whole spray can of Zero Rust inside the frame in the gas tank area, BUT could not reach inside the frame tube. A friend and restorer said he had a grease gun and some super beautiful goo that he could pipe in there and seal it up nicely (since the bike would always be stored in doors) AFTER I got it back from paint.

Damn it! Damn it! Damn it! Where the hell is my common sense!!!! Why didn't I ask my painter to take care of it while he was doing the body work. Why did I put all my eggs in the basket with the grease gun? Point being BE RELENTLESS in your research. Speak to everyone in your research and find all the options you can. There are multiple ways to get things done or fixed and some are better than others. Also, have a couple experts on hand to run things by. For example, I do NOTHING BIG without running it by Christopher Markley and Tom Giordano and sometimes Stu Werner.

Below is the thread of emails between Christopher and me trying to resolve the issue at hand for your reference:

Yes, Zero rust would probably be best. You could then apply the PPG stuff on
top of that in case there are any tiny areas uncovered.

Christopher Markley
Moto Rapido, LLC
www.motorapido.net

> From: > "Jeremy J. Sutton"
If I could get the frame upside down on horses or via hoist in my
buddies shop I could spray Zero Rust in there. Would that be better? I
could just tape the hell out of any areas the spray could escape from.


> From: > christopher markley wrote:
Spray the living crap out of it with the PPG anti rust waxy spray can
stuff, and don't let it sit outside. If you buy a place without a garage, keep
it in the house. If you can't do that, rent a storage facility. But get the
PPG stuff at BAPS and spray it hard.

> From: > "Jeremy J. Sutton"

Correct. I mean the hidden area in the center frame tube. I am scared
to use anything that can damage the paint job. I was under the
impression, when we spoke pre-paint, that you had a grease and grease
gun that you could use to coat the inside of that hidden area.

The bike will be garage stored (but could be outside when living in
Portland, OR as garages cost a big premium in some neighborhoods and it
does get WET there). We will baby the hell out of this bike!

I could see some rust in the area. It was not hit by the sand blaster
and I could not hit it with Zero Rust unless it was upside down above
my head.

Suggestions for safest, but most protective approach?

> From: > christopher markley wrote:

When you say the floorboard, I'm confused. The floorboard is thin
sheet metal with an exposed top and bottom side. The only hidden area is
inside the pressed center frame tube, and there is only a small area that is
hidden. How do you know it is really rusty? If you're not storing it
outside, it won't get worse. You can buy a PPG product at my favorite
paint shop BAPS in Lemoyne. It is a waxy solvent in a spray can like a paint
spray can. It is made to shoot into access holes of auto body components
that are hollow and that you need to protect from rust. I have sprayed this
into frames in the past. It is messy, nasty stuff. Read the instructions to
see how it reacts to fresh paint. Realize that when you spray it into the
frame channel, some might escape there the frame channel is welded to the
floorboards (unless your painter did the right thing and applied
permanently seam sealer to that seam before painting -- but most painters
don't do that). Don't make sparks when working with this stuff. It's
explosive in closed areas like the frame tube, and could blow up. Let it cure well
before using the frame channel as a bong or making any other sparks around
it.

Other than that product, you could use fogging oil, which you can buy
at boat and snowmobile suppliers in a spray can. But the PPG stuff is the cat's
ass. Good stuff.

Christopher Markley
Moto Rapido, LLC
Two-stroke engine rebuilding
Crank rebuilding
Lathe & milling machine services
Zinc plating & black oxide finishing
Powder coating
Metal polishing
cjmark@panetwork.com
www.motorapido.net

> From: > "Jeremy J. Sutton"

Christopher,

Regarding the rust in the frame (beneath the floor board) that the
medium blaster, Zero Rust, and painter could not get I've been told that a grease gun and some type of recommended grease is best to coat inside the frame
hole and would protect it very well.

The bike is at my buddy's shop where I will be reassembling it (with
his tools and help). I would like to protect the bike from rust and to
take care of it sooner than later.

How do you best recommend that I do that?

Jeremy

Budget: What's spent so far?

For newbie restorers, one way to show you what you're getting yourself into when restoring a bike from the ground up is to look at the budget and the dates of the receipts -- it's both a financial and time commitment. Below I have detailed what we've spent on the SS180 so far, but please keep in mind I may have another $1,000 in parts to add to this, putting the grand total around $4,700 when all is said and done.

Keep in mind that this dollar amount is okay for a rarer bike, but for less money than this you can buy a great and reliable Vespa or even Lambretta. If you were to invest this type of money in restoring a more common bike you would probably not be able to turn a profit if you sold it.

My goal at this point and hopes are to complete this bike for less $4,500. We'll see what my final parts order ends up costing.

The prices below include taxes and shipping/handling. It is pretty accurate to what we have spent so far on this bike.

---------------------------------------------------------------------

********* PARTS PURCHASED *********

Complete 1967 Vespa SS180 Eric Hughes $250
Engine Cases (mismatched pair) Moto-Rapido $114
PPG $25
Zero Rust (Spray Rust Convert) AutoBodyStore.com $15
Tal-Strip (Aircraft Paint Stripper) (12/06)Advance Auto Parts $29
Engine Parts + Muffler (7/06) ScooterWorks $270
Engine Parts + Carb Rebuild Kit (8/06) ScooterPartsDirect $103
Engine Parts + Cowl Louvres (6) + Steering Column Lock/Key (11/06) ScooterPartsDirect $114
Crank Garners Classic Scooters $175
Kickstart + Clauss Studios Engine Mounts (11/06) SCOMO $140
Brake Shoes + Front Shock Dampner (12/06) Motorsport $55
Tires, Fork Cover, and Front End Rebuild Supplies (1/07)
Motorsport $170
Gear Selector Box (1/07) ScooterPartsDirect $93
Headlamp, Chrome for Fender/Cowls, Gas & Horn Seal (2/07)
Scooterworks $93
SKF Bearings for Front Hub (5/07)Applied Industrial Technologies $24

TOTAL FOR PARTS: $1,670

---------------------------------------------------------------------

********* SERVICES RENDERED *********

Seat reupolstery Dura-Fit Cover, Inc. $159
Sandblast body (4/05) Seibert's Sand Blasting $106
Piston bore Moto-Rapido $109
Engine rebuild Moto-Rapido $300
Powdercoat shroud and fan cover Moto-Rapido $25
Carb rebuild Moto-Rapido $25
Stator/electrical wiring (includes parts) Moto-Rapido $55
Powdercoat (3) rims Moto-Rapido $50
Paint forks Moto-Rapido $50
Powdercoat shock and hubs Moto-Rapido $50
Powdercoat kickstand Moto-Rapido $25
Paint & Body Work K & K Autobody $1,060
Gas Tank Restore (12/06) Smitty Radiator Service $50

TOTAL FOR SERVICES RENDERED: $2,064

---------------------------------------------------------------------


***** GRAND TOTAL (6/07): $3,734 *****

Reassembly slated to begin

Well the Vespa was moved to, my buddy's, Ted Witmer's, shop for reassembly. This is the first time either of us have put a Vespa back together. Heck, I didn't even take it apart as I bought in pieces. Ted has rebuilt the front end for me, including the shock and the engine was rebuilt by Christopher Markley and body painted by K&K. So all that is left is putting the beast together. I have one more big order to place and I am working on a final parts list. I suspect I have about $400-800 more in parts to finish the bike.

My family and I are going home for the summer (I'm from S.F. and my wife from Portland, OR) and won't be back until September; therefore the project will begin in the early Fall. Plus my wife freelances so it all depends on what our income when we return as we may need close to a $1,000 to finish this bike up. My goal is to have the bike road ready before Spring starts. Also, I really want to get started on restoring my 1962 Lambretta TV175, which I will rebuild the engine on first and build another blog.

Here's the general outline for reassembly flow, per recommendation from Christopher Markley:

-- Set up two sawhorses and cover them with towels. Put frame on sawhorses.
-- Install fork.
-- Install cables.
-- Install centerstand.
-- Install rear shock top mount, and let bottom dangle.
-- Put scooter on floor, with auto jack stand
under rear end. Slide engine under frame, have assistant steady the frame.
-- Install engine swing arm to frame.
-- Pivot engine up and attach shock to rear
engine mount.
-- Install tire-mounted rim to hub.
-- Lower frame so scoot sits on its two tires.
-- Proceed with rest of job.
-- Voila!

I will post an updated "budget" to what we've spent so far and when I get my final parts list together I will post that too.

I hope this blog continues to be interesting and helpful for you.